After 3 seasons of river steelhead fishing using a drift chain setup on my Jackson Coosa, I decided it was time for something a little more substantial. There are often times where I want to stop my boat in the current and fish a hole, and I find myself struggling to get in the right position for the presentation that I want. I knew that a drift boat style anchor system in conjuction with a pyramid anchor would solve this problem for me. Drift boat style anchor systems have the advantage that they precisely center the anchor point and reduce swaying that can occur when using trolly type anchor systems in swifter water. After a few days of scouring the internet looking at what other Coosa owners have done, I decided to use whatever I had in the shop to rig up my own anchor setup. My main criteria were:

1.  I wanted it off the back, above the waterline, and hanging in such a way that it would not knock around while running class 2-3 rapids. 

2.  I wanted to maintain access to the rear hatch because I store essential gear back there.

3.  I wanted to still have use of the rear carry handle. 

4.  I wanted to be able to take the system on and off easily, so I could have a clean light kayak when I’m just going out for a paddle. 

5.  I wanted it to be SAFE! That meant a quick release, so if I get into trouble I can uncleat the rope and loose the whole anchor setup.

Here is what I came up with, using only pieces and parts sold at our Headwaters Kayak Shop. 

Step 1- Installing Track: I used Yak Attacks 8” GT175 track system to mount on the flat stern of the Coosa. I marked where the holes go and pre-drilled with a small drill bit. I then tapered the holes with the tip of a Phillips screwdriver. This allows the nuts to thread into the plastic, and creates the most watertight seal. I also fill the holes with Shoe Goo for additional sealing. I then use large fender washers and nuts on the backside to reinforce the track. 

Step 2 - Adapting Scotty base to Tracks: Using two Yak Attack Mighty Mounts and some T bolts, I installed a 241 Scotty base onto the track. I was very impressed by how snug and clean everything fit together. 

Step 3 - Anchor Lock: Using the Scotty as a base I installed a Scotty Mini Extender, and a Scotty 276 Anchor Lock. I did modify the system by taking out the rope locking mechanism on the Scotty, allowing the rope to feed freely through the system without locking. I cleat the anchor near my seat instead. 

Step 4 - Guides and Pulleys: Next I installed a couple of rope guides. Most people use eyelets, and that works ok, but the Sealect Design rope guide allows the system to work with much less friction. I mounted a Sealect Designs pulley off of my foot pedal using a small cable clip and a piece of para-cord. Lastly, I installed the clam cleat to secure my anchor line. (Note- sit in your kayak and play with the system so you know where to place the cleat before you drill holes.) 

Step 5 - Running the lines and tying on the anchor: So now all that is left to do is to tie on the pyramid anchor using a bowline knot, and run the lines through your system. 

Step 6 - After Thoughts: After rigging the system up I decided that I did not feel comfortable with the mount of strain the system was taking, so I added a stainless steel turnbuckle. I attached a carabineer through the back hatch, so I could still unclip the system and access the hatch, and then used the turnbuckle to keep tension on the whole setup. It’s solid as can be and I would trust I to hold me even in strong currents. 

Now all that is left to do is go catch a nice Steelhead on the Mokelumne River.